Wednesday, September 22, 2010

How many?

If the Inuit people have 97 different words for snow, I wonder how many words surfers have for waves?  I dont know the first thing about surfing but even I can see that the surf is different today than it was yesterday.  Today its frothy and fizzy.  The aqua waves are marbled with white veins.


 Yesterday the waves were clear enough to see through and the white fluff on top looked firm, like uncooked meringue.


They were like this the day before, as well. Crisp and clear.


Everyday they are beautiful to me. I love hearing them thunder and roar.  Especially at night but all day long as well.  There is no letting up. I think about breathing in all that extra oxygen, imagining the good it is doing me.  A week here at Tuross Heads (NSW) is every kind of relaxing unwinding bliss.  No wonder the locals want to keep this place a secret.


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